09 March 2010

Forty day & forty nights



Visions of letters have been dancing through my head lately. During this period of Lent, known here as Quaresima, the latest seasonal treat in the local bakeries are quaresimali [shown in the photo above]. Composed of sugar, egg whites, flour, cocoa powder and miscellaneous ingredients that vary from one recipe to another, the cookie batter is piped into the letters of the alphabet before baking.

The story of the cookie’s origins possesses that same elusive quality I have stumbled across time and time again when researching anything pertaining to this country’s far-reaching history. One source claims that nuns at a convent near Florence invented the Tuscan version in the mid-1800s; their choice to shape them into letters is said to be symbolic of the words of the Gospel. I’ve also read that the cookies assumed the form of letters to amuse the younger set, for whom they were mainly intended. In any case, the light and not-too-sweet quaresimali were once the only sweets allowed during the period of Lent; while perhaps austere compared to other dolci, they are nonetheless satisfyingly crunchy, with a whisper of chocolate. The inclusion of cocoa powder may seem out of place during Lent (I can’t help but think of Joanne Harris’s novel, Chocolat), but tradition says that it was added to make the cookies dark in color, out of respect for the religious season of mourning.

I imagine the bakers in charge of piping out endless alphabets during these forty days must trace letters in their sleep, but my excuse for breathing and dreaming letters more than usual lately stems from the days and nights I spent working on an abecedary (which I recently submitted for consideration in an exhibition of abecedaries at a Denver-based gallery). I find the concept of these books that follow the alphabet, unfolding one letter at a time, to be very inspiring—it’s a solid structure with endless possibilities.

I love the potential inherent in the design of an artist’s book, and notice the same kind of parallels I used to appreciate between my Treasure Boxes and buildings (a basic structure/exterior, an interior and the accessories/decorative details). Despite the intimate scale of a one-of-a-kind book, the cascade of decisions can feel overwhelming. But ultimately it’s satisfying to see a book through from beginning to end—to have control over every choice, from the theme, content and layout, to the size, medium, binding type, construction and cover. And I enjoyed the process of letting it evolve in a way that balanced the designated structure with the available time (of which there never seems to be enough for this kind of thing) and materials.

In fact, I was thrilled to be able to salvage just enough ‘scraps’ of the creamy, heavyweight Rives paper that first brought me to the path that led to The Piazzas of Florence. I still remember that July day, nearly eight years ago … I sat in the light of a sunny window, admiring the paper’s slightly toothy texture and deckled edges, knowing I just had to create something from it. I am fascinated by books that open in unexpected ways, revealing new layers . . . little surprises . . . so I started experimenting with miniature books whose pages folded out. I ended up with chapters that began with a historical background of each of Florence’s main piazzas, which was then followed by pages that unfolded to reveal different types of increasingly more ‘personal’ information: excerpts from the writings of past travelers, watercolored maps that could be personalized by readers, ‘Invitations’ to inspire creative expression and blank space to use however they wished. When I was ready to present the proposal for my ‘interactive travel guide’ (the original concept for the book that eventually became The Piazzas of Florence), the package included a mock-up chapter showing how the various elements worked together—which I constructed from the gorgeous Rives paper.

But back to the abecedary . . . One of my goals for each of the places in my multimedia Cities project is to create a one-of-a-kind book. For this one I chose to focus on the familiar, but endlessly enthralling, city of Florence (I can’t imagine ever running out of ways to express the many rich layers that characterize my adopted home). From the Arno to the Bridges, the Cupola, Dante and so on, I interpreted each element through an arrangement of photographs and accompanying text (for which I used Arno Pro, a font named for the river that I cross almost daily). After several rounds of experimentation, I decided on a modified accordion binding, a format I am drawn to because it can either be experienced like a traditional book or expanded for display in a series of ever-changing forms.

How good it was to work with paper again, to let my hands guide me wherever they were so inclined. Even photographing the book was rewarding as I manipulated the accordion folds into different shapes, allowing me to appreciate the sculptural quality of the piece. [Please click here to see a few photos.] Although I am very happy with the end result, I can’t help but reflect on other things I would have done if time had permitted (an inevitable part of the creative process). For example, I had originally envisioned individually hand-designing the letters, as well as creating collages to complement the photographs that portrayed each letter’s theme. I wish there had  been more time to contemplate the cover too but, in retrospect, I like how the juxtaposition of corrugated cardboard with the more refined gold and cream-patterned paper alludes to the contrasts that are intrinsic to Florence.

Now that the deadline has passed and my studio and life have regained some order, I am no longer breathing and dreaming the letters of the alphabet. But still, I find my brain wandering restlessly through the night, turning over ideas for other artist’s book: I am already planning the next one…

*


New growth is emerging from tender buds and birds have been twittering among the trees and the rooftops as local temperatures begin a general upward trend. But, as is typical of marzo pazzo (crazy March), winter isn’t ready to blow out of town just yet . . . in fact, snow flakes have been flurrying through the air much of today. A visit to the enticingly sunny Pitti ‘Beach’ over the weekend lasted about five minutes before the bone-chilling wind sent us inside. And after spending yesterday afternoon standing in near-zero temps while my daughter participated in a middle school triathlon, we could hardly wait to get home to our cast iron radiators, feather duvets, hot water bottles and steaming bowls of stew. After we had warmed our numb feet and purple hands and noses, we indulged in tiny cups of potent hot chocolate served with a handful of crispy quaresimali—the perfect accompaniment.



01 October 2009

Autumn plums & wool slippers







The summer drew to an unofficial close with a weekend-long party in the Oltrarno as the annual FlorenceWineEvent more or less took over the squares and streets. (You buy a card valid for ten wine tastings and then carry the complimentary wineglass from piazza to piazza, choosing which wines you’d like to try.) The temperatures were in the upper 20s, and Piazza Pitti, which hosted the largest number of stands, was packed with people. Their voices generated a constant roar, making me feel as if I were also part of the excitement even as I went about doing weekend things in my apartment.

In this week when September gives way to October, the last of the summer peaches sit next to dusky autumn plums, each setting off the color of the other. The crisp morning air is tinged with nostalgia, bringing back memories of those first days back at school—two decades of my own and now my daughter's. The early morning cold seems to almost burn my skin, while the warm afternoon temperatures recall an ideal summer day. I find this period when summer blurs into autumn to be slightly bittersweet. While fall is the season in which I feel most comfortable . . . for  the return of knitted scarves and feather duvets, pumpkins and apples, for its warm color palette and more serious tone . . . this need to wear slippers for all but three months of the year makes summer seem more precious here than it was in southern California.

*


Today feels like a classic Florentine autumn morning. I'm wondering if the clouds will continue to hover, or soon burn off. After seeing my daughter to the bus stop, I decide to head toward the river. The sun is just beginning to clear the bank of clouds, and the Arno is beautiful: multi-colored, with impressionistic reflections of the buildings along the southern edge, and crisp, almost photographic renditions of those on the north side. I cross at Ponte Santa Trìnita and, as I walk through Piazza Santa Trìnita, I peek into the church; I like its urban character, how easily you can pop in from the piazza. Since the morning Mass is in progress, I cross Via Tornabuoni to linger before the windows of Pucci for a moment—something I have not had a chance to do lately. I can't imagine wearing Pucci myself, but I love to see the latest bold patterns, to note how the fabric has been cut, twisted and shaped into an item that someone (!) will wear.


The elegant Via Tornabuoni thrills Prada, Pucci and Gucci lovers, but those who still remember the characterful, one-of-a-kind businesses still can't help but express their disappointment at how they've been replaced by the same designer names found in any cosmopolitan city. My pocketbook isn't one of those that permits purchases here, but I admit that I do find amusement in walking along the street, examining the fine Renaissance palazzi and noting the latest trends in the fashion world. The display windows are works of art in and of themselves, and I think that what's happening inside those shops can somehow be translated into whichever "language" we speak (and can afford).


The Thursday plant market is in progress in Piazza della Repubblica today, so I continue in that direction. As I walk through the loggia that runs along the west side of the square, I see a bucket-garden of dahlias: jewel fuchsia, deep red, bright orange, bubblegum pink. Dahlias are another reason I love autumn, so I can't resist picking out a bouquet of the pompom-shaped fuchsia blooms and one of the red ones, which are of the more open, more "expressive" variety—"double petaled" may be the correct term. The two shades are very similar: I love the juxtaposition of their subtle color variations, how it creates a rich play of shade and shadow.


With the velvety dahlias tucked under one arm, I cross Piazza della Repubblica to the sunny corner where Caffè Gilli lies. After a quick cappuccino at the bar—as always, elegantly presented and delicious—I head home, returning via Ponte Vecchio. The sun shimmers orange in the river, and I have never seen the post-war architecture on the south bank capture the morning light so beautifully. For a moment I watch that phenomenon in which the sun seems to be rushing towards me, delivering sparkles...like a giant Fourth-of-July sparkler, or a thick star soup. And, as I approach my apartment to the sound of the eight o'clock bells, I am reminded once again that every outing in Florence has the potential for new discoveries, to give a dose of beauty, of inspiration.



20 February 2009

Arzigogolare: to let one's mind wander


I am still trying to grasp the exact meaning of ‘arzigogolare’, a word I came across when I was first learning Italian. My textbook translated the verb as ‘to let one’s mind wander’, though it’s also linked to other, more negative meanings (to quibble, to build castles in the air). I was fascinated by the word’s zing, by the connotations of daydreaming, and while I have since discovered that not everyone considers ‘letting your mind wander’ to be a worthy pursuit, I do believe it’s essential for a creative life.

So enamored was I of the unusual verb that the opening chapter of the book that would later become The Piazza of Florence was originally entitled ‘Arzigogolare’. The name seemed to reflect the receptive state of mind needed for recording one’s travels, which had been the focus of the first chapter. As the book changed and evolved, however, the word no longer seemed to have a place; it retreated to the back of my mind, waiting for the right time.

Over the years the concept of ‘letting my mind wander’ has remained part of my creative routine, and as such it seemed the right title for my Florence-inspired musings. Much in the way that Florence’s piazzas are places of coming together . . . for events, experiences and memories . . . I am hoping this space will become a similar kind of ‘place’—a place for everyday reflections inspired by the city of Florence.



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